TECH FACTS & F.A.Q

THERE IS A LOT OF INFORMATION IN THIS LINK PLEASE BE PATIENT IF IT TAKES A WHILE TO LOAD, IF YOU HAVE HIGH SPEED CABLE IT WILL LOAD REAL FAST, HOW EVER IF YOU ARE STILL IN THE JURASSIC AGE (JUST KIDDING) OF THE PHONE MODEM IT WILL TAKE A LOT LONGER TO LOAD ALL THE PICTURES I HAVE POSTED ON HERE. I WILL ADDING A LOT MORE TECH INFORMATION ON THE DANA 44, 60, 70, 61 AXLES FOR THE FRONT ALONG WITH REAR.
 

WE GET A LOT OF QUESTIONS AND TRY TO ANSWER THEM AS BEST AS POSSIBLE.
SO BELOW IS A LIST OF MORE COMMON Q&A THAT I HAVE POSTED TO THIS LINK.

IF YOU A QUESTION SEND IT TO VIA E-MAIL AND I POST ON HERE FOR YOU.

QUESTION:
CAN YOU MAKE A TWO WHEEL DRIVE TRUCK INTO A FOUR WHEEL DRIVE TRUCK?

ANSWER:   YES AND NO, GOT YOU CONFUSED NOW, WELL THE TRUTH OF THE MATTER IS YES YOU CAN, BUT IT IS VERY EXPENSIVE AND YOU WILL HAVE TO DO A LOT OF MODIFICATIONS TO THE FRONT OF THE FRAME. WE KNOW WE HAVE TRIED IT, AND IT IS EASIER TO FIND A 4 WD CHASSIS AND SWITCH EVERYTHING OVER. BUT IF YOU ARE THE DETERMINED TYPE THEN GO FOR IT.

 

QUESTION: WHICH TRANSFER CASE IS THE BEST ONE TO USE IN MY 4 WD ?

ANSWER:  BY FAR THE BEST ONE IS THE NEW PROCESS 205 PART TIME TRANSFER CASE. THIS ONE IS A GEAR TO GEAR TRANSFER CASE AND IT HAS A CAST IRON HOUSING, PRETTY MUCH BULLET PROOF AS THEY SAY.

 

QUESTION:   WHAT EXHAUST SYSTEM SHOULD I RUN WITH MY BIG H.P. ENGINE?

ANSWER:   WELL THERE'S TWO WAYS YOU CAN GO HERE, THE FIRST BEING IF YOU ARE RUNNING HI-PERFORMANCE, STREET- STRIP, OR SOME WHERE IN THESE AREA'S THEN YOU RUN HEADERS. NOW WHERE THE HEADERS GO DOWN TO THE COLLECTORS, THE NORM IS 3" AT THE FLANGE, MOST HEADER MANUFACTURES SUPPLY YOU WITH REDUCERS TO RUN 2 1/2" PIPE. PERSONALLY  I RUN 3" PIPE ALL THE WAY BACK TO THE MUFFLERS. WHEN YOU GET TO THE MUFFLER POINT THEN YOU HAVE SOME CHOICES TO MAKE, NOW ME I RUN FLOW MASTER'S DUE TO THEIR LONG OUTSTANDING PERFORMANCE RECORD. BUT TO EACH THEIR OWN.
THE SECOND WAY TO GO IS IF YOU ARE JUST RUNNING STOCK ENGINE THEN I WOULD STILL GO WITH THE HEADERS. BECAUSE WITH THE HEADER SYSTEM YOU ALLOW THE EXHAUST GASES TO EXIT WITH LESS RESTRICTION AND LESS BACK PRESSURE, WHICH IN RETURN PROVIDES BETTER MILEAGE AND LESS WEAR AND TEAR ON THE TRUCK.



QUESTION:   WHAT ENGINE'S FIT WHAT TRANSMISSIONS ?

ANSWER:   HERE'S THE TRICKY PART FORD DID SOME WEIRD THINGS BACK IN THE 60'S AND 70'S AS FAR AS ENGINES AND TRANSMISSIONS GO. I WILL KEEP THIS AS SIMPLE AS POSSIBLE FOR YOU.
BELOW IS A TABLE THAT GIVES YOU AN IDEA OF OF YOUR LOOKING AT WHEN YOU WANT TO SWAP ENGINES.
 



ENGINE FAMILY
TRANSMISSION
TYPE OF BELL HOUSING PATTERN.
240, 260, 300, 289, 302, 351W, 351C, 
C-4, C-6, N.P. 435 4-SPD, 
SMALL BOLT PATTERN 
5" SPACE BETWEEN TWO TOP BOLTS
351M, 400, 429, 460, 
C-6, NP-435 4SPD,  Borg-Warner 4-SPD
LARGE BOLT PATTERN 
7 3/4" SPACE BETWEEN TWO TOP BOLTS
352, 360, 390, 428 CJ, 
C-6, FMX, NP-435 4-SPD, 
LARGE ROUND PATTERN 
WITH 6" SPACE BETWEEN TWO TOP MOUNTING HOLES

460 SWAP  FACT AND FICTION

QUESTION: WILL MY EXISTING  MOTOR MOUNT TOWERS WORK FOR ME IF I SWAP ENGINES?

ANSWER:      TRICKY QUESTION, WELL AGAIN IT DEPENDS ON WHAT APPLICATION YOU ARE WORKING WITH. LET'S START WITH THIS: 1977-79 F150 4 WD, WITH A 351M IN THE CRADLE. YOU WANT TO SWAP OUT AND DROP A 460 IN THERE, WHAT DO YOU DO FIRST?

460 SWAP
1977-79 F100/150 4 WD WITH A 351M/400 ENGINE AND C-6 TRANSMISSION.

  1. IS THE TRANSMISSION GOING TO BOLT UP TO THE BIGGER ENGINE ?  YES
  2. WILL I HAVE TO CHANGE THE EXHAUST ?   YES
  3. WILL I HAVE TO GET DIFFERENT MOTOR MOUNTS FOR THE 460?   YES
  4. WILL I HAVE TO CHANGE THE MOTOR MOUNT TOWERS?  NO
  5. WILL THE POWER STEERING BRACKETS FROM THE 351M WORK ON THE 460 ?  NO
  6. WILL THE ALTERNATOR BRACKETS FROM THE 351M WORK ON THE 460 ?  NO
  7. DID FORD EVER OFFER A 4 WD TRUCK WITH A 460 ENGINE ? NO ONLY IN THE 2 WD MODELS
  8. WILL THE FLYWHEEL FROM THE 351M/400 INTERCHANGE FROM EITHER AUTO TRANS. OR MANUAL TRANS.?  NO THERE IS A DIFFERENCE IN THE WAY THE 460 FLYWHEEL ARE BALANCED. EXAMPLE SOME OF THE 429/460 IN THE EARLY 70'S WERE EXTERNALLY BALANCED WHICH REQUIRED A WEIGHTED DAMPNER SPACER. WHEN YOU BUILD YOUR ENGINE MAKE SURE YOU KNOW HOW IT IS BALANCED BECAUSE IF YOU PUT THE WRONG SPACER OR FLYWHEEL YOU WILL GET ONE HELL OF A VIBRATION WHEN YOU START THE ENGINE, AND PRETTY QUICK YOU WILL POUND THE MAIN BEARINGS  RIGHT OUT.
460 SWAP
1973-77 F-250 4 WD WITH 360-390 ENGINE AND C-6 TRANSMISSION
  1. WILL THE 460 BOLT UP TO THE C-6 FROM 360 ENGINE?   NO, DIFFERENT BOLT PATTERN
  2. WILL I HAVE TO CHANGE THE EXHAUST?  YES
  3. WILL I HAVE TO GET MOTOR MOUNTS FOR THE 460?  YES
  4. WILL I HAVE CHANGE THE MOTOR MOUNT TOWERS ON THE FRAME ? YES TOWERS FOR THE 360 SET TO HIGH AND INTOO FAR FOR THE 460 BLOCK.
  5. WILL THE ALTERNATOR OR POWER STEERING BRACKETS FROM THE 360 ENGINE FIT THE 460?   NO
  6. FORD DID NOT OFFER THE 460 AS A OPTION IN THE F-250 4 WD TRUCKS FROM 73-79.
  7. WHAT TOWERS CAN I USE FOR THE SWAP ?   YOU CAN IETHER USE THE TOWERS FROM THE 78-79 F250 BUT YOU WILL HAVE TO MOVE THE TOWERS FORWARD ABOUT TWO TO THREE INCHS. NOW WHEN YOU DO THIS ONLY THE REAR BOLT HOLES WILL LINE UP SO YOU HAVE TO DRILL TWO FRONT 7/16" MOUNTING HOLES.  NOW YOUR OTHER OPTION IS TO FIND A EARLY 77 F250 4WD FRAME THAT HAD A 351M 400 IN IT FROM THE FACTORY AND TAKE THE TOWER FROM IT THEY WILL BOLT RIGHT IN WITH NO DRILLING. FORD STARTED INSTALLING THE 341M 400 ENGINES IN EARLY 1977  AROUNF FEB, MARCH, APRIL. THEN FORD SWITCHED OVER TO THE NEW FRAME DESIGN FOR 78-79.
  8. FACT: FORD DID NOT OFFER THE 351M/400 IN THE HIGH BOYS FROM 1974 TO 1976. THE ONLY ENGINES OFFERED WERE THE 360,390, AND 240 BY SPECIAl ORDER.
  9. FACT: FORD NEVER USED RIVETS IN THE MOUNTING OF MOTOR MOUNT TOWERS ON THE FRAME THEY USED 4 7/16" X 4" BOLTS TO MOUNT TO THE SIDE OF THE FRAME AND 2 ( 7/16X 1 1/2 ) ON THE TOP.


QUESTION:  WHAT DID FORD OFFER FOR FRONT AXLES IN THEIR 4 WD TRUCKS FROM 1973-79?

ANSWER:    BELOW IS A TABLE THAT SHOULD HELP YOU IN THIS MATTER.

NOTE: ON THE EARLY 4 WD MODELS FORD RAN DRUM BRAKES AND CLOSED KNUCKLES ON THE FRONT AXLES. AND ALSO THEY USED WHAT THEY REFER TO AS DANA 44 H.D. WHAT THIS IS, IS A DANA 44 AXLE HOUSING THAT THEY TOOK AND INSTALLED THE BIGGER BEEFIER DANA 60 SPINDLE AND HUB LOCK OUT ASSEMBLY ON. BASICALLY WHAT FORD DID IS KEPT THE DANA 44 STEERING KNUCKLE ON THERE AND JUST ADDED THE BIGGER SPINDLE AND LOCK OUTS TO IT. SO IF YOUR NOT REAL UP ON HOW FORD DID THIS YOU COULD BE FOOLED INTO THINKING THAT YOU ARE GETTING A DANA 60 FRONT AXLE WHEN YOU REALLY GETTING A DANA 44 H.D. FRONT AXLE.

NOTE: FROM 1973 TO EARLY 1977 FORD DID ANOTHER WEIRD DEAL, ON THE F250 4 WD TRUCKS THE TRANSFER CASE WAS NOT MOUNTED DIRECTLY TO THE BACK OF THE TRANSMISSION. IT WAS MOUNTED UP UNDER THE REAR CAB SUPPORT CROSS MEMBER. THIS WAS KWON AS THE DIVORCED TRANSFER CASE SETUP. YOU COULD TELL THIS BY SEEING A DRIVE SHAFT FROM THE TRANSMISSION TO THE TRANSFER CASE, AND THEN A FRONT SHAFT AND A REAR SHAFT.
 



YEAR
MODEL
AXLES
1979
F100/150 4 WD
DANA 44 HIGH PINION  3.50 GEARS
1978
F100/150 4 WD
DANA 44 HIGH PINION  3.50 GEARS
1977
F100/150 4 WD
DANA 44 HIGH PINION  3.50 GEARS
1979 
F250  4 WD
DANA 44 HIGH PINION  4.10 GEARS
1979
F250 4 WD (OPTION)
DANA 60 HIGH PINION 4.10 GEARS
1978/79
F350 4 WD
DANA 60 HIGH PINION  4.10 GEARS
1977 (EARLY)
F250 4 WD
DANA 44 H.D. LOW PINION  4.10 GEARS
1976
F250 4 WD
DANA 44 H.D. LOW MOUNT PINION  4.10 GEARS
1975
F250 4 WD
DANA 44 H.D. LOW MOUNT PINION  4.10 GEARS
1974
F250 4 WD
DANA 44 H.D. LOW MOUNT PINION


QUESTION: WERE THE FRAMES DIFFERENT IN THE F250 4 WD MODEL FROM 73-79?

ANSWER: YES THERE WAS A DIFFERENCE IN FRAME WIDTH'S FROM 1973- EARLY 77 FORD NARROWED THE FRAME RAILS IN THE REAR OF THE TRUCK. IN DOING THIS FORD DID NOT OFFER A REAR MOUNT GAS TANK IN THESE YEARS THE TANK WAS THERE FOR MOVED INTO THE CAB BEHIND THE SEAT. FORD OFFERED A HIGH BOY TRUCK IN THE MID 70'S WHICH SAT UP HIGHER OFF THE GROUND THAN A REGULAR 4X4 TRUCK DID.



QUESTION:    FORD HAD A WEIRD STEERING SETUP IN THE MID 70'S ON THEIR F250 4X4 MODELS WHAT WAS IT?

ANSWER:    THIS WAS ANOTHER ONE OF FORD'S NOT SO GOOD IDEAS BACK THEN, I THINK IT WAS CALLED POWER STEERING ASSIST OR SOMETHING TO THAT AFFECT ANY WAYS.  HERE'S WHAT IT CONSISTED OF:

  1. POWER STEERING PUMP WHICH PUMP FUILD TO A CONTROL VALVE
  2. THE CONTROL VALVE CONSISTED OF THE DRAG LINK BEING BUILT RIGHT INTO IT, WHAT IT WAS DESIGNED TO DO WAS DETERMINE HOW MUCH POWER ASSIST THE STEERING REALLY NEEDED DOWN AT THE STEERING RAM CYLINDER. IT WAS A GOOFY SETUP TO SAY THE LEAST.
  3. THEN YOU HAVE A POWER STEERING CYLINDER DOWN ON THE AXLE.
NOW HERE THE KICKER FOR THOSE OF YOU WHO WANT TO SWITCH OVER TO THE NEWER STYLE POWER STEERING SETUP LIKE ON THE 78/79 TRUCKS, IT CAN BE DONE BUT IT IS A PAIN IN THE ASS TO SAY THE LEAST. A QUICK RUN DOWN ON HOW FORD DID THINGS HERE;


QUESTION: WHAT ARE  FENDER WELL EXIT HEADERS?

ANSWER: THESE  TYPE OF HEADERS ARE DESIGNED WHERE THE EXHAUST TUBES GO OUT BETWEEN THE TOP OF THE FRAME RAIL AND THE BOTTOM OF THE INNER FENDER WELL JUST BEFORE THE FIREWALL OF THE CAB NOW UPON EXITING THROUGH THERE THEY BEND DOWN JUST IN FRONT OF THE FRONT CAB MOUNT BRACKET AND THEN BEND AGAIN TO GO DIRECTLY UNDER THE FRONT CAB MOUNT BRACKET. THE ADVANTAGES TO THIS STYLE OF SETUP IS AS FOLLOWS:

  1. NO EXCESSIVE HEAT BUILD UP FROM THE EXHAUST PIPES RUNNING RIGHT NEXT TO THE TRANSMISSION, TRANSFER CASE, AND OTHER FUEL LINES.
  2. MORE ROOM WHEN IT COMES TO REPAIRS OR MAINTENANCE INSIDE THE FRAME AREA.
  3. EASIER TO RUN DUEL EXHAUST BECAUSE YOU CAN THEN HAVE YOUR PIPES COME OUT JUST IN FRONT OF THE REAR TIRE.
  4. OH WHEN YOU DO HAVE TO PULL YOUR ENGINE FOR WHAT EVER REASON YOU DON'T HAVE TO REMOVE YOUR HEADERS AND EXHAUST TUBES.
  5. THE INSTALLATION IS VERY EASY TOO BECAUSE YOU DON'T HAVE TO FIGHT THE FRAME RAIL TO GET THEM IN.
NOTE: WHEN YOU INSTALL THESE KIND OF HEADER YOU MAY HAVE MOVE YOUR BRAKE LINES A LITTLE.
BELOW ARE SOME PICTURES OF MY TRUCK AND IT IS SETUP.

  * 



  * 




QUESTION: CAN I CHANGE MY FRONT AXLE WITH CLOSED KNUCKLES AND DRUM BRAKES TO A 77-79 FRONT AXLE WITH OPEN KNUCKLES AND DISK BRAKE SETUP ON MY 73-75 F150 4X4 TRUCK?

ANSWER: YES YOU CAN DO THIS BUT IT CAN GET EXPENSIVE BECAUSE YOU HAVE TO FIND A COMPLETE FRONT AXLE SETUP (HINT, HINT, HINT) TOO MY  KNOWLEDGE FORD NEVER MADE A LOW MOUNT PINION FOR THE F150 4X4 FROM 73-75 BUT I HAVE BEEN WRONG BEFORE. WHAT YOU WILL END UP WITH THIS WHEN IS DONE IS A 78/79 STEERING SETUP. THIS WILL ALSO DO AWAY WITH GOOFY ASS CONTROL VALVE AND RAM SETUP.  BELOW IS PICTURE OF HOW THE STEERING BOX IS GOING TO MOUNT UP WHEN YOU CHANGE OVER TO THIS SETUP.



FACT: THERE ARE ABOUT 6 DIFFERENT STYLES OF GAS TANK FILLER NECKS THAT FORD USED BETWEEN 73-79 BELOW ARE SOME PICTURES OF WHAT WE CARRY. COMPARE THEM  WITH WHAT YOU HAVE.
   * 



    * 

FACT: FROM 73-77 FORD OFFERED A 2 WD F350 SUPER CAMPER SPECIAL WITH A DANA 70 IN THE REAR, NOW THIS TRUCK HAD A SET BACK AXLE BECAUSE FORD OFFERED A COMPARTMENT BUILT INTO THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE BED FOR THE SPARE TIRE. I REALLY DON'T KNOW HOW MANY WERE MADE BUT THEY ARE A HARD FIND TODAY. THEY WERE EQUIPPED WITH A 460 V-8, HEAVY DUTY C-6 TRANSMISSION, AND EXTRA HEAVY DUTY SUSPENSION FRONT AND REAR. THEY DON'T BUILD THEM LIKE THIS ANYMORE. THE REAR AXLE CAN BE USED FOR THE DUALLY SETUP TOO.



FACT: I HAVE HAD MANY OF YOU ASK ME IF YOU CAN CONVERT FROM MANUAL STEERING TO POWER STEERING ON A 2 WD TRUCK. YES YOU CAN AND YOU DON'T HAVE TO CHANGE COLUMN TO DO SO. WHAT YOU WILL HAVE TO DO IS THIS:
  1. OBTAIN THE RIGHT BRACKETS NEEDED FOR YOU ENGINE
  2. OBTAIN A POWER STEERING GEAR BOX
  3. OBTAIN A POWER STEERING PUMP AND PULLEY
  4. OBTAIN THE PRESSURE AND RETURN LINES
  5. INSTALL THESE PARTS AND NO MORE WORK OUT AT TRUCK GYM.
  6. YOUR COLUMN HAS A 2" ADJUSTMENT UNDER THE DASH WHERE IT IS MOUNTED, ADJUST AS NEEDED.


FACT: FORD OFFERED AN OPTION OF HAVING DUEL GAS TANKS IN THESE TRUCKS BUT THERE WERE SOME CONFUSING SETUPS THUR THE YEARS. I WILL TRY TO EXPLAIN THE THESE SETUPS AS CLEARLY AS POSSIBLE WITH OUT PUTTING YOUR BRAIN IN THE BRAIN FREEZE CONDITION.

FACT:  THE SUPER CAB WITH A LONG BED FRAME CAN NOT BE CONVERTED OVER TO ACCEPT A CREW CAB AND A SHORT BED, DUE TO WHERE THE FRAME CURVES BACK UP. BECAUSE RIGHT WHERE AT THE START OF THE CURVE ON THE FRAME RAIL IS WHERE THE REAR CAB MOUNTS ARE MOUNTS ONTO THE FRAME RAIL.


FACT: FROM 73-79 FORD HAD DONE CHANGES IN THE RADIATOR GRILL SUPPORT SETUP. BELOW IS A LIST OF DIFFERENT CONFIGURATIONS THEY HAD.
  1. IN THE EARLY YEARS THE RADIATOR MOUNTING WAS A BIT DIFFERENT, THE GRILL SUPPORT HAD A FLANGE ON EACH SIDE THAT STUCK OUT ABOUT 3-4" , THE RADIATOR MOUNTED TO THESE FLANGES.
  2. NOW IN THE MID TO LATE 70'S FORD CHANGED OVER TO MOUNTING THE RADIATOR DIRECTLY TO THE SUPPORT INSTEAD OF FLANGES. THIS SETUP WAS SO MUCH EASIER.
  3. SOMETHING ELSE YOU NEED TO WATCH FOR IS THAT BIG HOLE IN THE MIDDLE OF THE SUPPORT WHERE THE AIR HAS TO PASS THUR. THERE WERE TOO DIFFERENT WIDTHS ON THESE,  1= 25" ACROSS    2= 28" ACROSS.  THE WIDEST ONE WAS FOR THE SUPER COOL RADIATOR.
  4. NOW WE GET TO ANOTHER TRICKY AREA HERE ON THE SUPPORT WITH THE 28" WIDE HOLE FORD OFFERED TWO DIFFERENT RADIATORS FOR THIS, IF YOU HAD A/C ON YOUR TRUCK THEN FORD INSTALLED A HEAVY DUTY SUPER COOL RADIATOR, NOW THIS RADIATOR IS 27" IN WIDTH AND 25" IN HEIGHT   (CORE SIZE) AND HAS 4 ROWS.


FACT: FORD DID SOME CHANGES ON THEIR WIRING HARNESSES THUR-OUT THE SEVENTIES, LIKE FOR EXAMPLE ON THE EARLY FIRE WALL TO TAILLIGHT HARNESSES FROM 73-77 THE END THAT PLUGGED INTO THE MAIN HARNESS AT THE FIREWALL HAD A SQUARE TYPE RUBBER PLUG WITH 4 TERMINALS, WHEREAS IN LATE 77 TO 79 FORD CHANGED OVER TO A PLASTIC PLUG END THAT HELD ALL THE WIRE CONNECTIONS FOR THE BRAKE WARNING LIGHT, GAS TANK SENDING UNIT, AND ALL THE LIGHTS FOR THE REAR. BELOW IS A PICTURE OF THE LATER PLUG DESIGN.

NOTICE THAT THIS LATER DESIGN HAS TWO PLUG INS THE BIG ONE IS FOR THE BRAKE, TURN, BACKUP, AND TAILLIGHTS, GAS TANK SENDING UNIT, AND BRAKE WARNING LIGHT SWITCH ON THE BRAKE PROP VALVE. THE OTHER SMALLER PLUG WAS FOR THE SIDE MARKER LIGHTS ON THE BOX.


FACT:
THERE ARE TWO DIFFERENT PRINTED CIRCUIT SHEET FOR THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER ON THESE TRUCKS. HERE IS THE DIFFERENCE THE SHEETS FROM 73-75 OR SO WERE GREEN IN COLOR. BELOW IS A PICTURE TO SEE WHAT I MEAN. THIS SHEET DID NOT HAVE THE SOCKET FOR THE BRIGHT LIGHT INDICATOR IN THE SPEEDOMETER HEAD, INSTEAD IT WAS IN THE SIDE ON THE END.

HERE IS THE LATER STYLE ONE FOR THE 76-79 YOU WILL NOTICE SOME CHANGES. YOU WILL SEE THIS ONE IS ORANGE IN COLOR. ALSO THIS ONE HAS THE LIGHT SOCKET FOR BRIGHT ON TOP AND A EXTRA BACK LIGHT ON THE BOTTOM. THE BASIC LIGHT SOCKET CONFIGURATION IS LIKE THIS. THE TWO INNER SOCKETS IN THE MIDDLE ARE FOR THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER BACK LIGHTING, THE NEXT TWO OUTER ONES ARE YOUR TURN LIGHTS, AND THE FAR OUTER ONES ARE YOUR BRAKE AND SEAT BELT WARNING LIGHTS.


FACT:
GAS TANK SENDING UNITS WHICH ONE DO YOU HAVE? THIS IS A POPULAR QUESTION THESE DAYS. WELL I AM HERE TO ANSWER YOUR QUESTION. FORD OFFERED DIFFERENT GAS TANK SETUPS IN THE 70's  LET'S START WITH THE 73-79 2 WD TRUCKS. THEY HAD A STEEL REAR TANK WHICH HELD 19 GALLONS, AND IF YOU WANTED IT FORD OFFERED A SECOND AUX-TANK WHICH WAS MOUNTED INSIDE THE FRAME ON THE LEFT SIDE WHICH WAS A STEEL TANK ALSO.
NOW WE GET INTO THE 4 WD TRUCKS, FROM 73-76 FORD PLACED THE MAIN TANK BEHIND THE SEAT IN THE F250's AND MOUNTED THE SIDE TANK ON THE LEFT SIDE INSIDE THE FRAME. FORD PUT THE MAIN TANK BEHIND THE SEAT BECAUSE THEY NARROWED THE FRAME ON THE F250's FROM  73-76. FOR WHAT REASON I WILL NEVER KNOW. NOW IN THE LATER PART OF 1977 TO 79 THE F250's WENT THROUGH ANOTHER CHANGE BY FORD, THEY MADE THE REAR OF THE FRAME WIDER SO THEY COULD TAKE THE BEHIND THE SEAT TANK AND MOVE IT TO THE REAR AFT THE REAR AXLE. THEN TO TOP THAT OFF FORD DECIDED TO GO WITH A PLASTIC MID SHIP TANK FOR THE AUX-SIDE TANK. NOW HERE'S THE KICKER FOR THIS SETUP FORD DESIGNED A METAL TRAY TO HOLDUP AND MOUNT THE PLASTIC TANK WITH. NOW IN MY BOOK THIS IS DONE DUE TO THE FACT THAT WATER AND DIRT AND SALT COLLECT IN THE TRAY AND IN A COUPLE OF YEARS YOU LOSE YOUR GAS TANK BECAUSE YOUR TRAY RUSTED OUT.
BELOW ARE SOME PICTURES OF THE DIFFERENT SENDING UNITS USED BY FORD.
THIS IS FOR THE BEHIND THE SEAT GAS TANK

THIS IS FOR THE REAR GAS TANK

THIS FOR THE PLASTIC SIDE GAS TANK 77-79 F250's 4 WD

THIS IS FOR STEEL SIDE MOUNT TANK FOR THE 2 WD's



COOL IDEA:
I AM SURE YOU GUYS THAT RUN HIGH STALL CONVERTORS HAVE HAD MAJOR PROBLEMS WITH YOUR TRANSMISSION HEATING UP. WELL HERE IS SOME COOL ADVISE FOR YOU GUYS.
NUMBER ONE IS INSTALL A TRANSMISSION TEMP GAUGE THIS IS A MUST IF YOU ARE DOING THE FOLLOWING: TOWING, RUNNING BIG TIRES, MUDDING, OFFROADING, RUNNING HIGH STALL CONVERTOR, OR PLOWING. I SPEAK FROM EXPERIENCE HERE  DUE TO THE FACT THAT I AM RUNNING A 2500 STALL COAN CONVERTOR IN MY TRUCK, NOW I HAVE A TRANSMISSION TEMP GAUGE ( AUTO METER) IN MY TRUCK AND I HAD TO PULL AND REBUILD MY TRANS. 3 TIMES IN 6 MONTHS DUE TO OVERHEATING PROBLEMS. AND NO IS WAS NOT MY WORK. JUST THOUGHT I WOULD CLARIFY THAT. LET ME EXPLAIN THIS A LITTLE HERE ANYTIME YOU RUN A STALL CONVERTOR OR USE YOUR TRUCK FOR PURPOSES LISTED ABOVE YOUR TORQUE CONVERTOR CREATES HEAT ESPECIALLY HIGH STALL CONVERTORS. NOW BECAUSE THE CONVERTOR CREATES THIS HEAT AND IT HAS TO GO SOME WHERE RIGHT, WELL IT TRANSFERS THE HEAT INTO THE TRANS. FUILD AND THAT IN TURN IS CIRCULATED INTO THE TRANSMISSION WHICH IN TURN HAS NO WAY OF COOLING DOWN THE FUILD OTHER THAN AN OUTSIDE COOLER BYWAY OF TRANSMISSION COOLING LINES . NOW I HAVE TRIED THE BIGGEST MADE AFTER MARKET COOLERS OUT THERE AND NONE OF THEM KEPT MY TRANSMISSION UNDER 200 DEGREES. THIS IS WAY TO HOT OF TEMP FOR THE TRANSMISSION TO BE RUNNING.
FOR ANY EXTENDED AMOUNT OF TIME DUE TO THE FACT THAT YOU WILL START BURNING UP FRICTION CLUTCH PLATES, STEELS, THRUSH WASHERS, PLANETARY GEARS, AND BEARINGS.
I HAVE FOUND THE ONLY SETUP TO KEEP MY TRANSMISSION UNDER 185 DEGREES ABOUT 95 PERCENT OF THE TIME, AND THAT IS THIS: FIRST OFF YOU NEED TO FIND A CONDENSER THAT MOUNTS IN FRONT OF THE RADIATOR, NOW I KNOW YOUR THINKING WHAT THE HEEL IS THAT?
OK HERE IT IS PLAIN ENGLISH ON THE FORD TRUCKS IN THE 70's THAT HAD A/C INSTALL BY THE FACTORY HAD WHAT THEY CALL A GRILL CONDENSER MOUNTED IN FRONT OF THE RADIATOR, THIS WAS USED TO COOL THE FREON  DOWN AFTER IT WAS COMPRESSED AND WENT THROUGH THE EVAPORATOR. THE COOL PART OF THIS IS YOU DON'T HAVE TO FIND A WAY TO MOUNT THIS UP, NOR DO YOU HAVE TO PUT IT RIGHT UP AGAINST YOUR RADIATOR WITH TIES. I HAVE PUT SOME PICTURES BELOW SHOWING HOW I DID THIS ON MY TRUCK.

YOU CAN SEE HOW IT MOUNTS HERE THIS WAS A FACTORY SETUP TOO.

  * 

  * 

THE ABOVE PICTURES WILL SHOW YOU HOW I RUN THE STEEL LINES AND HOW I USED THE EXISTING LINES FROM THE CONDENSER TOO. YOU WILL HAVE TO TAKE OFF THE DRYER BOTTLE FROM THE CONDENSER BUT THERE PRETTY EASY TO DO. THEN YOU WILL HAVE TO CUT THE TOP FREON LINE AS SEEN IN THE BOTTOM PICTURE.
THEN YOU WILL HAVE TO CUT THE BOTTOM FREON LINE JUST ABOUT A INCH ABOVE THE BEND AS SEEN IN THE TWO MIDDLE PICTURES.  YOU WILL NO GET SOME 3/8" FUEL LINE TOO ABOUT 4-6 FEET IN CASE YOU CUT A PIECE TO SHORT. YOU WILL ALSO HAVE TO GET SOME 3/8" STEEL FUEL LINE I WOULD RECOMMEND FOUR  60" SECTIONS. ONE OTHER THING TOO YOU WILL NEED TO BUY SOME LINE ADAPTERS THAT WILL SCREW INTO YOUR TRANSMISSION. THE SIZE IS 5/16" MALE END WITH 1/2" FEMALE.
THE REASON THIS SETUP WORKS SO WELL IS THAT THE INBOUND TUBE GOES IN AS A SINGLE LINE BUT THEN SPLITS OFF INTO TWO ROWS IN THE CONDENSER AND THEN ON THE EXITING END AT THE BOTTOM IT COMES BACK INTO A SINGLE LINE. SO YOU ARE GETTING DOUBLE THE COOLING HERE. NOW IF YOU DON'T RUN A TRANSMISSION TEMP GAUGE THEN YOU ASKING FOR TROUBLE FROM THE WORD GO.


IGNITION SWITCHES
FACT: FORD HAD THREE DIFFERENT STYLE OF IGNITION SWITCHES FROM 73-79 NOW YOU ARE REALLY CONFUSED I LOVE IT, THE BACK OF THE SWITCHES WERE DIFFERENT, BELOW ARE PICTURES OF WHAT I AM TRYING EXPLAIN HERE.







FACT:
THERE ARE TWO DIFFERENT STYLES OF BRAKE PEDAL ASSEMBLIES THAT WERE USED BY FORD BACK IN THE 70's. ONE WAS FOR TRUCKS THAT HAD A MANUAL TRANSMISSION WHICH USED  A CLUTCH PEDAL. BELOW ARE SOME PICTURES TO SHOW YOU WHAT I AM GETTING AT.
  *   * 


THIS IS THE OTHER STYLE BRAKE PEDAL ASSEMBLY THIS ONE IS FOR A TRUCK WITH A AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION.


FACT!
460 SWAP OUT, FOR YOU GUYS WHO WANT TO DROP A 460 INTO YOUR 771/2 TO 79 F250 4X4. IT'S VERY EASILY DONE. CHECK OUT THE PICTURES BELOW.
   * 


ABOVE LEFT IS THE PASSENGER SIDE  & ABOVE RIGHT IS THE DRIVERS SIDE


   * 
ABOVE LEFT IS DRIVER SIDE TOP VIEW        PASSENGER SIDE TOP VIEW


   * 
FRONTAL VIEW                                                   REAR VIEW


YOU CAN KEEP THE ORIGINAL TOWERS AND YOU CAN USE THE SAME C-6 TRANSMISSION IF YOU HAD A 351M 400 IN THERE BEFORE. NOTICE YOU WILL HOWEVER NEED THE SPECIAL MOTOR MOUNTS. SO IF L&L TELLS YOU THAT IT CAN'T BE DONE WELL I HATE TO SAY THIS BUT THEY ARE FULL OF YOU KNOW WHAT !  NOW WE COME TO THE EXHAUST PART OF THIS PROJECT I WILL TELL YOU THE BEST WAY TO GO IS THE FENDER WELL EXIT HEADERS. BECAUSE FOR ONE THING YOU REALLY DON'T WANT ALL THAT EXCESSIVE HEAT FROM THE EXHAUST DOWN THERE BY THE TRANSMISSION AND TRANSFER CASE. INFACT HEAT WILL CAUSE YOU TRANSMISSION FAILURE FASTER THAN ANYTHING. THIS SWAP WILL WORK IN THE F150 4X4 TOO JUST AS EASY.

FACT !
YOU CAN DO AN EASY LIFT ON THE REAR OF YOUR TRUCK WITHOUT SPENDING A LOT OF MONEY FOR NEW SPRINGS AND BLOCKS.  HOW YOU DO IT FIRST OFF YOU MUST GO THROUGH ALL JACKING UP THE TRUCK AND THE SAFETY STUFF TOO. DON'T WANT THE TRUCK FALLING DOWN ON TOP OF YOU "NOT GOOD"!   THAT  AND I DON'T WANT YOUR WIFE OR GIRLFRIEND COMING AFTER ME. JUST KIDDING, ANY WAYS BACK TO THE BUSINESS AT HAND FIRST OF ALL YOU MUST REMOVE THE REAR PART OF THE SPRING FROM THE SHACKLE AND THEN AFTER YOU DO THAT, YOU NEED TO TAKE A TORCH AND CAREFULLY CUT THE HEADS OFF THE RIVETS. THEN YOU WILL NEED A LONG PUNCH TO DRIVE OUT THE RIVETS.
ONCE YOU HAVE DONE THIS YOU WILL NEED TO DRILL OUT THE RIVET HOLES WHICH ARE 7/16" HOLES TO 1/2" HOLES. ONCE YOU HAVE DONE THIS THEN YOU CAN GET READY TO REMOUNT YOUR SHACKLE MOUNT BRACKET, BUT NOW BEFORE YOU REINSTALL THE BRACKET TURN IT UP SIDE DOWN AND MOUNT IT TO THE FRAME RAIL. THIS WILL GIVE YOU BETWEEN 4 1/2" TO 5" OF LIFT TO THE REAR SUSPENSION. IF YOU HAD STOCK BLOCKS IN THERE REINSTALL THEM. ONCE YOU HAVE HOOKED UP YOUR SPRING TO THE SHACKLE YOU WILL NOTICE THAT THE PINION WILL BE POINTED UP TOWARDS THE TRANSFER CASE MORE. THIS WILL NOT HURT THE U-JOINTS. I HAVE READ IN ANOTHER FORD TRUCK SITE (  I WON'T MENTION ANY NAMES ) THE IT WILL TEAR UP THE U-JOINTS WELL I AM HERE TO SAY, THAT'S B-S SOMEONE IS TALKING OUT THEIR TAIL SECTION. MYTH NUMBER TWO IS THAT THE AXLE IS MOVED CLOSER TO THE FRONT. NOT TRUE!!!!   IN ORDER TO DO THAT YOU WOULD HAVE TO RELOCATE THE FRONT HANGER MOUNTS FORWARD. ANY TIME YOU DO A LIFT ON THE FRONT OR REAR AXLE YOU WILL MOST LIKELY NEED TO POSSIBLY LENGTHEN THE DRIVE SHAFTS IT WILL DEPEND ON THE AMOUNT OF LIFT YOU DECIDE TO GO WITH.

" SPECIAL NOTE"
ON THE 78-79 BRONCO'S THERE IS A WEDGE BETWEEN THE SPRING AND AXLE SPRING PERCH THIS MUST BE REINSTALLED OR YOU WILL HAVE TO MUCH ANGLE ON THE REAR DRIVE SHAFT AND YOU WILL END UP BREAKING THE U-JOINT AND POSSIBLY THE YOKE TOO.
ALSO ON THE BRONCO THE REAR SHACKLE MOUNT BRACKET MUST BE MOVED FORWARD 1 1/2" INCHES OR YOU WILL NOT GET THE RIGHT SPRING SHACKLE TRAVEL. BELOW IS A PICTURE OF HOW IT SHOULD LOOK WHEN YOU ARE DONE.
 



FACTS !
BELL HOUSING FACT OR FICTION,  FIRST OFF I GET A LOT OF PHONE CALLS FROM CUSTOMERS WANTING TO KNOW IF THE BELL HOUSING FOR THE 460 IS THE SAME ONE AS THE ONE FOR THE 351M 400 ENGINES. YES IT IS. I NOT ONLY CONFIRMED THIS WITH FORD RACING BUT AFTER I TOOK ONE OFF A 2WD CAMPER SPECIAL I SET THEM SIDE BY SIDE THEY ARE EXACTLY THE SAME DEPTH, WIDE, AND  BOLT PATTERN. BELOW IS A PICTURE OF THE BELL HOUSING FRONT SIDE AND BACK SIDE.  BELOW ARE THE SPEC'S ON THE FLYWHEEL, BELL HOUSING AND CLUTCH.

  1. OVER ALL WIDTH FROM THE RING GEAR SIDE TO SIDE IS 15 1/2 "
  2. OVER ALL WIDTH FROM WHERE THE RING GEAR IS INSTALLED IS  14 3/8"
  3. THE THICKNESS OF THE FLYWHEEL SHOULD BE 1 "
  4. THE BELL HOUSING DEPTH IS 6" FROM THE DEEPEST POINT
  5. YOU WILL NEED A 11 " CLUTCH KIT ( LONG STYLE CLUTCH WILL NOT WORK)

    * 
I CAN'T GET MUCH CLEARER THAN THAT.


FACT !
ON THE DIRECT MOUNT SETUP FOR THE TRANSMISSION TO TRANSFER CASE THERE ARE 3 TO DIFFERENT COUPLER FORD USED BACK THEN, ALONG WITH OUTPUT SHAFTS.

1. C-6 TO NP205 TRANSFER CASE USED BOTH A LONG AND SHORT COUPLER SETUP. LET ME EXPLAIN THIS IN MORE DETAIL SO YOU UNDERSTAND. THE 78-79 BRONCO'S AND F150 SHORT BOX 4X4,s USED THE LONGER COUPLER DUE TO THE FACT THAT FORD WENT WITH A DOUBLE CARDON DRIVE SHAFT ON THE FRONT AND REAR, BECAUSE OF THIS THE DRIVE SHAFT WAS LONGER. BELOW IS A PICTURE OF THE COUPLER.
    *                                          * 
THE OUTPUT SHAFT FOR THESE SETUP IS 20" LONG AND THE COUPLER IS 8 3/4" LONG



2. C-6 TO NP205 TRANSFER CASE COUPLED WITH THE SHORT COUPLER AND OUTPUT SHAFT.
THE COUPLER IS 5 3/4" LONG AND THE OUTPUT SHAFT IS 15 1/2" LONG. BELOW ARE PICTURES OF THE PARTS. ON THIS SETUP THERE IS NO DOUBLE CARDON DRIVE SHAFT. THIS TAKES A REGULAR SHAFT WITH A U-JOINT AT BOTH ENDS.
   *                                            * 


3. THE THIRD COUPLER IS USED ON THE TRANSMISSION NP-435 4-SPEED COUPLED TO NP-205 TRANSFER CASE. THE COUPLER IS 8 1/16" LONG BELOW ARE PICTURES OF THE COUPLER.
   *            * 


WIRING HARNESS FACTS:
FORD DID SOME STRANGE THINGS WHEN IT CAME TO THE MAIN HARNESSES, FOR EXAMPLE FROM 1973-1976 FORD HAD THESE STYLES OF IGNITION PLUGS AND TAIL LIGHT PLUGS.
   * 


THEN THERE WAS THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER PLUG, FORD OFFERED TWO DIFFERENT INSTRUMENT CLUSTER OPTIONS ONE WITH PARTIAL GAUGES AND ONE WITH FULL GAUGES.
THE DIFFERENCE IS THE FULL SETUP HAD ALL FOUR GAUGES WHICH INCLUDED FUEL, OIL PRESSURE, ALT, WATER TEMP.  THE PARTIAL GAUGE SETUP ONLY HAD GAUGES FOR FUEL AND ENGINE TEMP. IT HAD WARNING LIGHTS FOR ALTERNATOR AND OIL PRESSURE. BELOW ARE SOME PICTURES OF THE PLUGS FOR THE TWO DIFFERENT INSTRUMENT CLUSTERS
*                                                               * 
THE ONE ON THE LEFT IS FOR THE PARTIAL GAUGES, THE ONE IN THE RIGHT IS FOR THE FULL GAUGES. THE PLUG TO THE RIGHT HAS 18 TERMINALS WHERE AS THE PLUG TO THE LEFT ONLY HAS 14 TERMINALS.


NOW WE COME TO THE TAIL LIGHT HARNESS PLUG FOR THE 77 1/2 TO 79 YEARS. BELOW IS A PICTURE OF THE DIFFERENT STYLE THAT FORD WENT TO IN THE LATE PART OF 1977.
ON THIS SAME MAIN WIRE HARNESS THERE ARE OTHER CHANGES THAT FORD MADE TO THE KEY SWITCH PLUG, FUSE BOX SIZE. AGAIN BELOW ARE PICTURES OF THESE CHANGES.
  * 
UPPER LEFT IS THE IGNITION PLUG AND THE MIDDLE IS KEY SWITCH THAT GOES TO THAT PLUG. THE PICTURE ON THE RIGHT IS THE FUSE BOX NOTICE IT IS MUCH BIGGER THAN THE EARLIER YEARS. WHEN YOU ORDER A MAIN WIRE HARNESS FROM US THIS IS THE INFORMATION WE WILL NEED TO KNOW ABOUT YOUR EXISTING HARNESS.


I HAVE DONE IT AGAIN, I HAVE ENGINEERED A WAY TO INSTALL DISK BRAKES ON THE DANA 60 REAR AXLE. SO THIS WAY YOU CAN HAVE 4WD DRIVE WITH  4 WHEEL DISK BRAKES. I AM WORKING ON THE FORD 9" NEXT. ANY WAY BELOW ARE SOME PICTURES OF WHAT I CREATED.
*                * 


MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS
FORD OFFERED A COUPLE A DIFFERENT TYPES OF MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS SUCH AS THE NP-435 WITH THE LOW FIRST GEAR, THEN THERE WAS A BORG- WARNER 4-SPEED WHICH WAS SOMEWHAT THE SAME STYLE AS THE NP-435. THESE TWO TRANSMISSIONS WERE TOP LOADER TRANSMISSIONS BECAUSE OF THE FACT THAT YOU CAN REMOVE THE TOP TOWER AND GET TO THE GEAR CLUSTERS. THE TOWER ALSO HOUSED THE SHIFTER SELECTOR ASSEMBLY. THESE TRANSMISSIONS HAD A HEAVY DUTY CAST IRON HOUSING AND WERE PRETTY SIMPLE TO REBUILD, A WHOLE LOT EASIER THAN THE TRANSMISSIONS YOU SEE IN TRUCKS TODAY. BELOW ARE SOME PICTURES OF A NP-435 FOR A 2WD TRUCK I REBUILT.
  * 


YOU WILL NOTICE WITH THESE TRANSMISSIONS YOU HAVE THE OPTION OF INSTALLING A POWER TAKE OFF SETUP FOR A WINCH OR SOMETHING. THE ONE DRAWBACK TO THIS TRANSMISSION IS THAT THEY DO NOT HAVE SYNCHS IN THEM SO WHEN YOU SHIFT YOU HAVE TO DO EASY, THERE IS NO SPEED SHIFTING WITH THESE TRANSMISSIONS. THEY WERE MADE TO BE A WORK HORSE. THE BEST KIND OF OIL TO RUN IN THESE IS 80/90 GEAR OIL. ALSO THESE CAME WITH A MAGNET IN THE BOTTOM SO ABOUT ONCE A YEAR I WOULD RECOMMEND DRAINING THE OIL AND CLEANING THE MAGNET AND FIND OUT WHAT KIND OF CONDITION YOUR BEARING AND GEARS ARE IN.


DIVORCED MOUNT AND DIRECT MOUNT TRANSFER CASES, DRIVE SHAFTS AND U-JOINTS
FACTS

FOR THOSE OF YOU WHO DON'T KNOW WHAT A DIVORCED TRANSFER CASE SETUP IS, I AM GOING TO EDUCATE YOU ON THE DIFFERENCE FROM THE DIRECT MOUNT TO THE DIVORCED MOUNT. FIRST OF ALL THE ONLY MODEL THAT HAD THIS SETUP WAS THE 73-77 HIGH BOY 4WD.
THE PICTURES I AM SHOWING YOU BELOW SHOW THE SETUP FOR THE C-6 AND THE NEW PROCESS 205 SETUP.
***
THE PICTURE TO THE LEFT SHOWS THE TRANSFER CASE FROM THE REAR AND HOW IT MOUNTS UP TO THE REAR CAB MOUNT CROSS MEMBER. IT ALSO SHOWS THE SUPPORT BRACE USED. THE PICTURE TO RIGHT SHOWS THE BRACKETS AND SQUARE BUSHINGS USED TO MOUNT THE TRANSFER CASE TO THE CROSS MEMBER.



***
THE PICTURE TO THE LEFT SHOWS SHIFT LINKAGE AND THE DRIVE SHAFT THAT CONNECTS THE TRANSMISSION TO THE TRANSFER CASE, THIS IS WHERE THE TERM DIVORCED MOUNT COMES FROM. IN THE PICTURE TO THE RIGHT YOU CAN ALSO SEE HOW THE TRANSFER CASE SHIFTER AND LINKAGE IS HOOKED UP, AND ALSO HOW THE TRANSMISSION IS MOUNTED TO THE CROSS MEMBER.


***
THE PICTURE ABOVE JUST GIVES YOU A MORE DETAILED LOOK AT HOW EVERYTHING IS MOUNTED AND CONFIGURED.


***
THE PICTURE TO THE LEFT SHOW THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE FRONT OF THE TRANSFER CASE MOUNTING SETUP. THE PICTURE TO THE RIGHT SHOW THE WHERE THE REAR SUPPORT ROD CONNECTS TO THE REAR CROSS MEMBER.

HERE'S SOME MORE IMPORTANT INFO FOR YOU ON THE DRIVE SHAFTS TOO, BELOW IS THE SPEC'S ON THE FRONT, MIDDLE, AND REAR SHAFTS FOR THE NP-203 AND NP-205 DIVORCED
SETUP.

MEASURING YOUR DRIVE SHAFTS

WHEN YOU ARE MEASURING YOUR DRIVE SHAFT,  YOU NEED TO MEASURE FROM THE CENTER LINE OF THE U-JOINT CAP OF ONE END OF THE SHAFT TO THE CENTER LINE OF THE U-JOINT OF THE OTHER END. DO THIS THIS WITH THE SHAFT FULLY COLLAPSED, AND FULLY EXTENDED BECAUSE THIS WILL NOT ONLY TELL YOU HOW LONG THE SHAFT WILL NEED TO BE BUT IT WILL ALSO TELL YOU HOW MUCH SLIP YOKE TRAVEL YOU WILL HAVE TO HAVE.

SLIP YOKE TRAVEL

( SLIP YOKE TRAVEL IS THE AMOUNT OF TRAVEL THE SHAFT WILL EXTEND OR COLLAPSE WHEN YOU HIT BUMPS OR YOU ARE INCURRING A LOT OF SUSPENSION FLEX.)

NOT ENOUGH SLIP YOKE TRAVEL

IF YOU DON'T HAVE ENOUGH SLIP YOKE TRAVEL AND YOU ARE INCURRING A LOT OF SUSPENSION FLEX YOU WILL END UP CAUSING SEPARATION OF THE DRIVE SHAFT AT THE SLIP YOKE POINT. ALSO YOU CAN BOTTOM OUT THE SHAFT TOO AND EITHER BEND THE DRIVE SHAFT, DO DAMAGE TO THE TRANSFER CASE NOT TO MENTION THE TRANSMISSION.
I PREFER A LITTLE EXTRA SLIP YOKE TRAVEL MY SELF JUST TO BE SAFE.

DRIVE SHAFT BALANCING

BALANCING YOUR DRIVE SHAFT IS VERY CRITICAL BECAUSE IF YOU HAVE A UNBALANCED SHAFT THEN YOU HAVE VIBRATION, WHICH WILL TRAVEL THROUGH OUT THE WHOLE DRIVE TRAIN CAUSING BEARING FAILURE, PREMATURE BEARING WEAR, U-JOINT FAILURE, AND BREAKAGE. ANY TIME YOU HAVE WORK DONE ON YOUR DRIVE SHAFTS HAVE THEM HIGH SPEED BALANCED. I RECOMMEND A SHOP THAT CAN SPIN  THE SHAFT TO AT LEAST 5000 TO 6000 RPM'S, THIS WILL SHOW ANY INBALANCE FLAWS IN THE SHAFT. THE COST OF BALANCING WILL RANGE FROM 25.00 TO 50.00 DOLLORS DEPENDING WHERE YOU TAKE IT.
IF YOU TAKE IT TO A SHOP DRIVE SHAFT SHOP THAT CAN ONLY BALANCE IT AT 500 TO 1000 RPM'S TAKE YOUR SHAFT AND WALK AWAY FROM THE SHOP.
IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS ABOUT DRIVE SHAFTS YOU CAN CALL MY BROTHER AT
DYNOTECH MOTORSPORTS HIS NAME IS GREG  YOU CAN REACH HIM AT 1-800-633-5559 OR YOU CAN GO TO THE WEB SITE:  http://www.dynotechmotorsports.com/
 

WHAT SIZE ARE MY U-JOINTS
HOW DO I TELL WHAT SIZE U-JOINTS I AM RUNNING IN MY DRIVE SHAFTS ?
 

  1. THE FIRST THING YOU NEED TO DO IS MEASURE THE WIDTH OF THE JOINT FROM END CAP TO END CAP ( B IN THE PICTURE ABOVE).
  2. THE NEXT MEASUREMENT YOU NEED TO MAKE IS THE WIDTH OF THE END CAP ITSELF SEEN IN ( A ) IN THE PICTURE ABOVE.
BELOW ARE SOME THE MOST COMMON SIZES USED IN THE FORDS.

1330 SERIES JOINT

1350 SERIES JOINT 1310 SERIES JOINT

IF YOU ARE PLANNING ON DOING A TRANSFER CASE SWAP OUT FROM A NP-203 TO NP-205 IN A DIVORCED SETUP WITH A C-6 TRANSMISSION, YOU WILL NEED TO CHANGE THE FOLLOWING:
  1. THE CROSSMEMBER SUPPORT
  2. TRANSFER CASE MOUNTING BRACKETS
  3. SHIFTER, AND LINKAGE
  4. LENGTHEN THE MIDDLE SHAFT
  5. LENGTHEN THE REAR SHAFT
  6. SHORTEN THE FRONT SHAFT
NP-205 / C-6 AUTOMATIC IF YOU ARE DOING A TRANSFER CASE SWAP OUT FROM A NP-203 TO A NP-205 WITH A DIRECT MOUNT SETUP WITH A C-6 TRANSMISSION, YOU WILL NEED TO CHANGE THE FOLLOWING:
  1. CHANGE THE CROSSMEMBER SUPPORT
  2. TRANSFER CASE TO TRANSMISSION COUPLER AND MOUNT
  3. SHIFTER AND LINKAGE
  4. LENGTHEN REAR SHAFT
  5. SHORTEN FRONT SHAFT

I HOPE THIS WILL MAKE YOU CLEARER ON THE DIVORCED MOUNT SETUP THAT FORD HAD ON THE F250 4WD FROM 1973-77 HIGH BOYS. I PREFER THIS SETUP IF YOU ARE GOING TO HAVE A LOT OF SUSPENSION LIFT SUCH AS 6-8" IT GIVES YOU BETTER DRIVE SHAFT ANGLES.


FRONT AND REAR CAB MOUNT FACTS
REAR CAB MOUNT BRACKETS ? WHAT DID FORD DO DIFFERENT IN THE 70'S, WELL I WILL SHOW YOU. ON THE F250 4WD HIGH BOYS FROM 1973-77 FORD MOVED THE REAR CAB MOUNT BRACKETS TO THE OUTSIDE OF THE FRAME. LOOK AT THE PICTURES BELOW AND YOU SEE WHAT I MEAN.
***





DANA 44 AND DANA 60 FRONT AXLES
FACTS

I HAVE BEEN ASKED THIS QUESTION SO MANY TIMES NOW ON  HOW TO TELL THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A DANA 44 FRONT AXLE AND A DANA 60 FRONT AXLE. BELOW ARE PICTURES OF A DANA 44 FRONT AXLE WITH HIGH PINION.
***
IN THE PICTURE TO THE LEFT SHOWS YOU HOW THE STEERING KNUCKLE IS MOUNTED TO THE C-BRACKET, NOTICE IT IS ATTACHED WITH BALL JOINTS WHERE AS THE DANA 60 IS NOT.
THE PICTURE TO THE RIGHT SHOWS YOU HOW THE UPPER BALL JOINT MOUNTS TO THE UNDERSIDE OF THE TOP OF THE C-BRACKET AND THE BOTTOM BALL JOINT MOUNTS TO THE UNDERSIDE OF THE BOTTOM PART OF THE C-BRACKET. THIS IS HOW THE DANA 44'S ARE SETUP. OH BY THE WAY I RECOMMEND THAT YOU KEEP THESE BALL JOINT WELL GREASED OR YOU WILL REPLACING THEM EVERY COUPLE OF MONTHS INSTEAD OF MAYBE ONCE EVERY COUPLE OF YEARS. NOW HERE ANOTHER LITTLE TIP FOR YOU GUYS WHO WANT TO INSTALL THESE UNDER JEEPS. BELOW IS ARE THE FOLLOWING MEASUREMENTS ON THIS AXLE HOUSING.

IN CASE YOUR WANTING TO KNOW THE C-BRACKET IS THAT'S THE C-SHAPED ARM THAT IS WELDED ONTO THE END OF EACH AXLE TUBE. AS SHOWN IN THE ABOVE PICTURE. ALSO THIS IS C-BRACKET FACE RIGHT THERE WHERE THE HOLE IS ( GET YOUR MIND OUT OF THE GUTTER). THIS IS WHERE I GET THE WIDTH FROM C-BRACKET FACE TO C-BRACKET FACE.

NOW WE GET TO THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE HIGH PINION AND LOW PINION HOUSINGS.
FORD ONLY PUT THE LOW MOUNT PINION DANA 44 FRONT AXLE IN THE HIGH BOY F-250 4X4'S
IN THE EARLY YEARS FROM 1973 TO AROUND 1975 FORD USED THE CLOSED KNUCKLE SYSTEM WHICH MEANS YOU COULD NOT SEE THE AXLE SHAFT U-JOINTS BECAUSE THEY WERE INCLOSED IN A BALL AND SOCKET SETUP. WHEREAS IN THE LATER 70'S (1976 - 77) HIGH BOYS FORD WENT TO THE OPEN KNUCKLE STYLE WHEREAS YOU COULD SEE THE AXLE SHAFT U-JOINT ASSEMBLY. THE PICTURES ABOVE ARE AN EXAMPLE OF THE OPEN KNUCKLE SETUP. ALSO WITH THE THIS OPEN SETUP CAME THE DISK BRAKES TOO. WHERE AS WITH THE CLOSED KNUCKLE SYSTEM HAD DRUM BRAKES. BELOW IS A PICTURE OF THE HIGH PINION DANA 44 FRONT AXLE FROM 78-79 F250 4X4
***
NOW WITH THE HIGH PINION SETUP HERE YOU CAN NOT RUN STANDARD ROTATION YOU MUST RUN REVERSE CUT RING AND PINION GEARS IN THIS TYPE OF AXLE. NOW WITH THE LOW PINION AXLE YOU CAN RUN STANDARD ROTATION GEARS WITH NO PROBLEM. NOW LOOK AT THE PICTURE ABOVE AGAIN AND NOTICE THAT THE DRIVE SIDE SPRING PERCH IN CAST RIGHT INTO THE DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING WHERE AS THE RIGHT SPRING PERCH IS WELDED ON TO THE AXLE TUBE. PICTURE IN THE RIGHT SHOWS YOU THE LOW PINION FRONT AXLE. ALL THE WIDTH MEASUREMENTS ARE THE SAME AS THE HIGH PINION AXLE. AGAIN FORD ONLY USED THIS LOW PINION FROM LATE 1975 TO EARLY 1977 IN THE HIGH BOYS. THIS LOW PINION, OPEN KNUCKLE WAS SETUP WITH DISK BRAKES TOO.

OTHER NOTES:

  1. FORD OFFERED A DANA 44 HD FOR THE 75-77 HIGH BOYS WHICH HAD A BEEFIER DIFFERENTIAL CASTING AND INSTEAD OF THE STANDARD F250 HUBS AND LOCKOUTS THEY WENT TO A DANA 60 STYLE HUB AND LOCKOUT ASSEMBLY, BUT THEY DID NOT BEEF UP THE AXLE SHAFT YOKES AND U-JOINTS SO THEY MORE OR LESS DEFEATED THEIR PURPOSE. WHAT GOOD IS THE BIGGER HUB AND LOCKOUTS IF YOU DON'T BEEF UP THE AXLE SHAFT YOKES AND RUN BIGGER U-JOINTS.
  2. NOW YOU CAN CUT THE WELDS ON THESE AXLES AND REPOSITION THE C-BRACKET ARMS TO HANDLE MORE DRIVE SHAFT ANGLE BUT BE CARE IF YOU ARE DOING THIS YOUR SELF BECAUSE YOU WILL NEED TO GET THEM ALIGNED PERFECT WHEN YOU REWELD THEM.

***
THE PICTURE TO THE RIGHT SHOWS YOU WHERE TO LOCATE THE BILL OF MATERIALS NUMBERS AND THE MANUFACTURE DATE. SORRY FOR THE POOR PICTURE. THESE NUMBERS ARE LOCATED IN THE FRONT TO THE RIGHT IN BETWEEN THE DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING AND THE C-BRACKET ON THE TUBE.


CAB MOUNT MEASUREMENTS

FOR THOSE OF YOU WHO ARE DOING THE FRAME OFF RESTORATION HERE'S THE CAM MOUNTING SPEC'S WHEN MOUNTING YOUR CAB BACK ON THE FRAME.

 

FRAME WIDTHS
I GET A LOT OF CALLS ON THIS, SO I AM GOING TO TRY TO CLEAR UP ANY MISGIVINGS ON FRAME WIDTHS.

BELOW ARE SOME PICTURES OF THE REAR FRAME WIDTHS I WAS TALKING ABOUT ABOVE


IF YOU NOTICE IN THE PICTURE ABOVE WHERE I WAS TALKING ABOUT THE FRAME STARTS WIDENING OUT JUST PAST THE REAR OF THE CAB. THE FRAME ABOVE IS A 79 F100, 2WD LONGBED.


NOW IN THIS PICTURE YOU WILL SEE WHERE I MEASURE THE FRAME AT !
NOT AT THE FLANGES BUT ON THE MAIN OUTER RAIL PART. YOU SEE WHERE IT MEASURES OUT TO 37 1/2"
THAT THE TRUE WIDTH.























      

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MORE TO COME LATER
 

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