STEP 1:
FIRST OF ALL YOU MUST FIND A BLOCK WORTHY OF THIS PROJECT, I RECOMMEND A BLOCK FROM 1970 TO 1977.
STEP 2:
MAKE SURE THE BLOCK IS NOT CRACKED, I WOULD HAVE IT SONIC CHECKED TO BE SURE. THEN TAKE A DIAL BORE GAUGE AND CHECK THE CYLINDER BORE FOR WEAR. YOU WANT THE CYLINDERS TO CLEAN UP AT EITHER .O3O OR .040 OVER. YOU REALLY DO NOT WANT TO GO OVER .040 DUE TO THE FACT THAT THE WALLS IN THESE BLOCKS DON'T HAVE ENOUGH THICKNESS TO BORE MORE THAN .040 OVER.
STEP 3:
AFTER YOU HAVE DETERMINED WHAT YOU ARE GOING TO BORE THE CYLINDERS OUT TO, THEN YOU CAN HAVE YOUR LOCAL MACHINE SHOP CHECK THE DECK FOR LEVELNESS, I RECOMMEND THAT YOU HAVE THE DECK MACHINED TO SQUARE IT UP. AFTER YOU DO THIS THEN HAVE THEM CHECK THE LINE BORE OF THE MAINS.
NORMALLY YOU DON'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT THIS BUT IT'S GOOD TO HAVE IT CHECKED ANY WAYS. AFTER ALL THIS IS DONE YOU CAN BRING IT HOME AND PUT THE BLOCK ON THE ENGINE STAND, FROM THERE YOU TAKE A TAP AND DIE SET AND START RETAPPING ALL THE THREADED HOLES FOR THE HEAD BOLTS, PAN BOLTS, AND ALL THE OTHER THREADED HOLES. WHEN YOU DO THIS BE VERY CAREFUL IN DOING THIS BECAUSE IT DOES NOT TAKE MUCH FORCE OR PRESSURE TO BREAK A TAP OFF ON THE HOLE. IF THIS HAPPENS YOU WILL HAVE A BITCH OF A TIME TRYING GET THE TAP OUT OF THE HOLE, SO TAKE YOU TIME AND GO SLOW AND DON'T BE AFRAID TO USE SOME WD-40.
STEP 4:
WHEN YOU HAVE COMPLETED ALL THIS THEN YOU NEED TO GET A AIR HOSE WITH A BLOW GUN AND BLOW OUT ALL THE HOLES YOU JUST TAPPED, AFTER THIS GET A BUCKET OF WARM WATER AND SOME LAUNDRY SOAP AND A HOSE, TAKE A HAND BRUSH AND CLEAN THE BLOCK UP REAL GOOD. WHEN YOU HAVE DONE THIS, TAKE THE HOSE AND RINSE THE BLOCK OFF REALLY GOOD, THEN TAKE THE AIR HOSE AND BLOW OFF THE BLOCK REAL GOOD MAKE SURE YOU DRY THE BLOCK REALLY GOOD SO YOU DON'T HAVE SURFACE RUST FORMING. IF YOU HAVE A BLOW DRYER YOU CAN USE THAT TOO THE WARM AIR WILL HELP DRY THE BLOCK. AFTER YOU HAVE COMPLETED THIS TAKE A PLASTIC ENGINE BAG AND PUT OVER THE ENGINE BLOCK THIS WILL KEEP ANY DIRT AND MOISTURE OUT.
STEP 5:
NOW WE MOVE ON TO THE CRANKSHAFT, I SUGGEST YOU TAKE IT TO YOUR LOCAL MACHINE SHOP AND HAVE THEM MIC IT AND SEE WHAT IT WILL CLEAN UP AT. RULE OF THUMB HERE YOU DON'T WANT TO GO OVER .030 UNDER ON THE ROD JOURNALS OR THE MAINS. NORMALLY THE CRANK WILL CLEAN UP AT .010 TO .020 UNDER. TELL YOUR MACHINE SHOP YOU WANT THEM TO MICRO POLISH ALL THE JOURNAL AND YOU WANT THE OIL HOLES CHAMBERED. THE MORE POLISHED THEY CAN GET THE JOURNALS THE LONGER THE BEARING WILL LAST. YOU SEE THERE IS ONLY ABOUT .002 THOUSANDS TO .005 THOUSANDS OF OIL FILM BETWEEN THE BEARING AND JOURNAL WHICH IS NOT A LOT OF PROTECTION FROM METAL TO METAL CONTACT. SO YOU WANT THE JOURNALS POLISHED TO THE HIGHEST FINISH.
STEP 6:
NOW AFTER YOU HAVE GOT YOUR CRANKSHAFT BACK YOU WILL NEED TO GET BEARING FOR IT, I SUGGEST EITHER FEDERAL MOGUL HIGH PERFORMANCE BEARINGS OR YOU CAN GO WITH CLEVITE H SERIES BEARING BUT YOU ARE LIMITED ON SIZES WITH CLEVITE BEARINGS.
STEP 7:
NOW WE MOVE TO THE NEXT STEP IN THE BUILD, INSTALLING THE OIL RESTRICTER KIT. THIS KIT WILL RESTRICT THE AMOUNT OF OIL GOING TO THE CAM BEARING AND TO THE VALVE TRAIN. THE REASON FOR RESTRICTING THE OIL FLOW TO THE VALVE TRAIN IS DUE TO THE FACT THAT FORD DID NOT HAVE A REAL GOOD OIL SUPPLY TO THE MAIN AND ROD BEARINGS AND BECAUSE OF THIS THE ENGINE WAS GETTING A BAD RAP FOR SPINNING BEARINGS AND BREAKING CRANKSHAFTS. NOT ONLY THIS BUT THESE ENGINES ONLY HAD A LIFE OF 50,000 TO 80,000 MILES BEFORE YOU HAD TO REBUILD THE BOTTOM END OF THE ENGINE.
I WILL EXPLAIN HOW THIS HAPPENS, THE CLEVELAND WAS THE FIRST ENGINE BEFORE THE 400M, NOW THE CLEVELAND HAD A GOOD BOTTOM END BUT WHEN FORD REDESIGNED THE CLEVELAND INTO THE MODIFIED ENGINE, FORD MADE THE MAIN JOURNALS BIGGER BUT DID NOT ALLOW FOR THE OIL FLOW TO THE MAINS DUE TO THE OIL FEED HOLES TO CAM BEARING WERE WAY TO BIG AND THEREFORE THE OIL FLOW WAS NOT SUFFICIENT ENOUGH TO KEEP THE MAIN BEARINGS AND ROD BEARINGS NOT ONLY COOL ENOUGH BUT SUFFICIENTLY LUBRICATED. NOW WITH THE RESTRICTOR KIT INSTALLED IN THE BLOCK, THE OIL FLOW AND PRESSURE ARE KEPT TO THE ROD AND MAIN BEARING WHERE NOT ONLY IT IS NEEDED BUT SINCE THE OIL IS THE ONLY THING THAT COOLS DOWN THE CRANKSHAFT AND RODS THIS IS VERY CRUCIAL.
BECAUSE IF YOU DON'T KEEP THE OIL COOLED DOWN TO A TEMPERATURE THAT IS WITHIN THE ACCEPTABLE LIMITS OF THE OIL THERMO BREAKDOWN LIMIT, THEN YOU WILL NOT ONLY LOSE THE VISCOSITY OF THE OIL BUT YOU HAVE PREMATURE THERMO BREAKDOWN OF THE OIL AND THEN YOU START SPINNING BEARINGS. THEN YOU HAVE MAJOR ENGINE PROBLEMS.
STEP 8:
NOW THAT WE HAVE COMPLETED INSTALLING THE RESTRICTOR KIT, IT'S TIME TO DROP THE CRANKSHAFT INTO THE BLOCK. VERY CAREFULLY OPEN THE MAIN BEARING PACKAGE AND LOOK FOR THE BEARINGS THAT SAY TOP AND BOTTOM THIS IS VERY IMPORTMANT BECAUSE THE ONES THAT SAY TOP HAVE TO BE INSTALLED IN THE TOP OF THE MAIN JOURNAL BECAUSE THERE IS A HOLE OR GROOVE THE FEEDS THE CAMSHAFT WITH OIL. IF YOU DON'T INSTALL THE BEARINGS RIGHT YOU WILL STARVE THE CAMSHAFT AND VALVE TRAIN FROM OIL THEN YOU WILL HAVE MAJOR ENGINE PROBLEMS AGAIN. AFTER YOU HAVE INSTALLED THE BEARINGS THEN YOU NEED TO VERY CAREFULLY PUT THE CRANKSHAFT INTO THE BLOCK, ONCE YOU HAVE DONE THIS THEN YOU CAN PLASTIC GAGE THE BEARINGS. THE OIL CLEARANCE SHOULD BE BETWEEN TWO THOUSANDS AND FIVE THOUSANDS ANYMORE THAN FIVE THOUSANDS AND YOU MAY RUN IN TO OIL PRESSURE PROBLEMS. YOUR MACHINE SHOP SHOULD HAVE THE TOLERANCES PRETTY CLOSE. NOW AFTER YOU HAVE CHECKED THE BEARING CLEARANCES YOU CAN TAKE THE CRANKSHAFT BACK OUT AND APPLY A LIBERAL AMOUNT OF ASSEMBLY LUBE, I RECOMMEND IETHER ROYAL PURPLE ASSEMBLY LUBE OR LUCAS OIL STABLIZER. REINSTALL YOUR CRANK BACK INTO THE BLOCK AND THEN REINSTALL YOUR MAIN CAPS AS FOLLOWS IN THIS ORDER. 3, 1, 5, 2, 4 AFTER YOU HAVE DONE THIS LIGHT TAP ON THE TOPS OF THE MAIN CAPS TO SEAT THEM TO THE BLOCK AFTER THIS TAKE YOU MAIN CAP BOLTS AND COAT THEM WITH ASSEMBLY LUBE, THEN START WITH CAP ORDER ABOVE HAND TIGHT THEM FIRST. NOW TO THE TORQUE DOWN STEPS, START AT CAP 3 TIGHTEN TO 105 FOOT LB'S, THEN GO TO CAP 1 DO THE SAME, CAP 5 DO THE SAME, AND SO ON. AFTER YOU TORQUE DOWN EACH MAIN CAP SPIN THE CRANK OVER A FEW TURNS TO MAKE SURE YOU HAVE NO BINDING, BECAUSE NOW IS THE TIME TO DEAL WITH THIS PROBLEM IF IT OCCURS. IF THE CRANK TURNS AROUND WITH LITTLE RESISTANCE THEN THIS GOOD. THE PRELUBE OIL WITH GIVE YOU A LITTLE RESISTANCE BUT NOT MUCH.
FIRST OF ALL YOU MUST FIND A BLOCK WORTHY OF THIS PROJECT, I RECOMMEND A BLOCK FROM 1970 TO 1977.
STEP 2:
MAKE SURE THE BLOCK IS NOT CRACKED, I WOULD HAVE IT SONIC CHECKED TO BE SURE. THEN TAKE A DIAL BORE GAUGE AND CHECK THE CYLINDER BORE FOR WEAR. YOU WANT THE CYLINDERS TO CLEAN UP AT EITHER .O3O OR .040 OVER. YOU REALLY DO NOT WANT TO GO OVER .040 DUE TO THE FACT THAT THE WALLS IN THESE BLOCKS DON'T HAVE ENOUGH THICKNESS TO BORE MORE THAN .040 OVER.
STEP 3:
AFTER YOU HAVE DETERMINED WHAT YOU ARE GOING TO BORE THE CYLINDERS OUT TO, THEN YOU CAN HAVE YOUR LOCAL MACHINE SHOP CHECK THE DECK FOR LEVELNESS, I RECOMMEND THAT YOU HAVE THE DECK MACHINED TO SQUARE IT UP. AFTER YOU DO THIS THEN HAVE THEM CHECK THE LINE BORE OF THE MAINS.
NORMALLY YOU DON'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT THIS BUT IT'S GOOD TO HAVE IT CHECKED ANY WAYS. AFTER ALL THIS IS DONE YOU CAN BRING IT HOME AND PUT THE BLOCK ON THE ENGINE STAND, FROM THERE YOU TAKE A TAP AND DIE SET AND START RETAPPING ALL THE THREADED HOLES FOR THE HEAD BOLTS, PAN BOLTS, AND ALL THE OTHER THREADED HOLES. WHEN YOU DO THIS BE VERY CAREFUL IN DOING THIS BECAUSE IT DOES NOT TAKE MUCH FORCE OR PRESSURE TO BREAK A TAP OFF ON THE HOLE. IF THIS HAPPENS YOU WILL HAVE A BITCH OF A TIME TRYING GET THE TAP OUT OF THE HOLE, SO TAKE YOU TIME AND GO SLOW AND DON'T BE AFRAID TO USE SOME WD-40.
STEP 4:
WHEN YOU HAVE COMPLETED ALL THIS THEN YOU NEED TO GET A AIR HOSE WITH A BLOW GUN AND BLOW OUT ALL THE HOLES YOU JUST TAPPED, AFTER THIS GET A BUCKET OF WARM WATER AND SOME LAUNDRY SOAP AND A HOSE, TAKE A HAND BRUSH AND CLEAN THE BLOCK UP REAL GOOD. WHEN YOU HAVE DONE THIS, TAKE THE HOSE AND RINSE THE BLOCK OFF REALLY GOOD, THEN TAKE THE AIR HOSE AND BLOW OFF THE BLOCK REAL GOOD MAKE SURE YOU DRY THE BLOCK REALLY GOOD SO YOU DON'T HAVE SURFACE RUST FORMING. IF YOU HAVE A BLOW DRYER YOU CAN USE THAT TOO THE WARM AIR WILL HELP DRY THE BLOCK. AFTER YOU HAVE COMPLETED THIS TAKE A PLASTIC ENGINE BAG AND PUT OVER THE ENGINE BLOCK THIS WILL KEEP ANY DIRT AND MOISTURE OUT.
STEP 5:
NOW WE MOVE ON TO THE CRANKSHAFT, I SUGGEST YOU TAKE IT TO YOUR LOCAL MACHINE SHOP AND HAVE THEM MIC IT AND SEE WHAT IT WILL CLEAN UP AT. RULE OF THUMB HERE YOU DON'T WANT TO GO OVER .030 UNDER ON THE ROD JOURNALS OR THE MAINS. NORMALLY THE CRANK WILL CLEAN UP AT .010 TO .020 UNDER. TELL YOUR MACHINE SHOP YOU WANT THEM TO MICRO POLISH ALL THE JOURNAL AND YOU WANT THE OIL HOLES CHAMBERED. THE MORE POLISHED THEY CAN GET THE JOURNALS THE LONGER THE BEARING WILL LAST. YOU SEE THERE IS ONLY ABOUT .002 THOUSANDS TO .005 THOUSANDS OF OIL FILM BETWEEN THE BEARING AND JOURNAL WHICH IS NOT A LOT OF PROTECTION FROM METAL TO METAL CONTACT. SO YOU WANT THE JOURNALS POLISHED TO THE HIGHEST FINISH.
STEP 6:
NOW AFTER YOU HAVE GOT YOUR CRANKSHAFT BACK YOU WILL NEED TO GET BEARING FOR IT, I SUGGEST EITHER FEDERAL MOGUL HIGH PERFORMANCE BEARINGS OR YOU CAN GO WITH CLEVITE H SERIES BEARING BUT YOU ARE LIMITED ON SIZES WITH CLEVITE BEARINGS.
STEP 7:
NOW WE MOVE TO THE NEXT STEP IN THE BUILD, INSTALLING THE OIL RESTRICTER KIT. THIS KIT WILL RESTRICT THE AMOUNT OF OIL GOING TO THE CAM BEARING AND TO THE VALVE TRAIN. THE REASON FOR RESTRICTING THE OIL FLOW TO THE VALVE TRAIN IS DUE TO THE FACT THAT FORD DID NOT HAVE A REAL GOOD OIL SUPPLY TO THE MAIN AND ROD BEARINGS AND BECAUSE OF THIS THE ENGINE WAS GETTING A BAD RAP FOR SPINNING BEARINGS AND BREAKING CRANKSHAFTS. NOT ONLY THIS BUT THESE ENGINES ONLY HAD A LIFE OF 50,000 TO 80,000 MILES BEFORE YOU HAD TO REBUILD THE BOTTOM END OF THE ENGINE.
I WILL EXPLAIN HOW THIS HAPPENS, THE CLEVELAND WAS THE FIRST ENGINE BEFORE THE 400M, NOW THE CLEVELAND HAD A GOOD BOTTOM END BUT WHEN FORD REDESIGNED THE CLEVELAND INTO THE MODIFIED ENGINE, FORD MADE THE MAIN JOURNALS BIGGER BUT DID NOT ALLOW FOR THE OIL FLOW TO THE MAINS DUE TO THE OIL FEED HOLES TO CAM BEARING WERE WAY TO BIG AND THEREFORE THE OIL FLOW WAS NOT SUFFICIENT ENOUGH TO KEEP THE MAIN BEARINGS AND ROD BEARINGS NOT ONLY COOL ENOUGH BUT SUFFICIENTLY LUBRICATED. NOW WITH THE RESTRICTOR KIT INSTALLED IN THE BLOCK, THE OIL FLOW AND PRESSURE ARE KEPT TO THE ROD AND MAIN BEARING WHERE NOT ONLY IT IS NEEDED BUT SINCE THE OIL IS THE ONLY THING THAT COOLS DOWN THE CRANKSHAFT AND RODS THIS IS VERY CRUCIAL.
BECAUSE IF YOU DON'T KEEP THE OIL COOLED DOWN TO A TEMPERATURE THAT IS WITHIN THE ACCEPTABLE LIMITS OF THE OIL THERMO BREAKDOWN LIMIT, THEN YOU WILL NOT ONLY LOSE THE VISCOSITY OF THE OIL BUT YOU HAVE PREMATURE THERMO BREAKDOWN OF THE OIL AND THEN YOU START SPINNING BEARINGS. THEN YOU HAVE MAJOR ENGINE PROBLEMS.
STEP 8:
NOW THAT WE HAVE COMPLETED INSTALLING THE RESTRICTOR KIT, IT'S TIME TO DROP THE CRANKSHAFT INTO THE BLOCK. VERY CAREFULLY OPEN THE MAIN BEARING PACKAGE AND LOOK FOR THE BEARINGS THAT SAY TOP AND BOTTOM THIS IS VERY IMPORTMANT BECAUSE THE ONES THAT SAY TOP HAVE TO BE INSTALLED IN THE TOP OF THE MAIN JOURNAL BECAUSE THERE IS A HOLE OR GROOVE THE FEEDS THE CAMSHAFT WITH OIL. IF YOU DON'T INSTALL THE BEARINGS RIGHT YOU WILL STARVE THE CAMSHAFT AND VALVE TRAIN FROM OIL THEN YOU WILL HAVE MAJOR ENGINE PROBLEMS AGAIN. AFTER YOU HAVE INSTALLED THE BEARINGS THEN YOU NEED TO VERY CAREFULLY PUT THE CRANKSHAFT INTO THE BLOCK, ONCE YOU HAVE DONE THIS THEN YOU CAN PLASTIC GAGE THE BEARINGS. THE OIL CLEARANCE SHOULD BE BETWEEN TWO THOUSANDS AND FIVE THOUSANDS ANYMORE THAN FIVE THOUSANDS AND YOU MAY RUN IN TO OIL PRESSURE PROBLEMS. YOUR MACHINE SHOP SHOULD HAVE THE TOLERANCES PRETTY CLOSE. NOW AFTER YOU HAVE CHECKED THE BEARING CLEARANCES YOU CAN TAKE THE CRANKSHAFT BACK OUT AND APPLY A LIBERAL AMOUNT OF ASSEMBLY LUBE, I RECOMMEND IETHER ROYAL PURPLE ASSEMBLY LUBE OR LUCAS OIL STABLIZER. REINSTALL YOUR CRANK BACK INTO THE BLOCK AND THEN REINSTALL YOUR MAIN CAPS AS FOLLOWS IN THIS ORDER. 3, 1, 5, 2, 4 AFTER YOU HAVE DONE THIS LIGHT TAP ON THE TOPS OF THE MAIN CAPS TO SEAT THEM TO THE BLOCK AFTER THIS TAKE YOU MAIN CAP BOLTS AND COAT THEM WITH ASSEMBLY LUBE, THEN START WITH CAP ORDER ABOVE HAND TIGHT THEM FIRST. NOW TO THE TORQUE DOWN STEPS, START AT CAP 3 TIGHTEN TO 105 FOOT LB'S, THEN GO TO CAP 1 DO THE SAME, CAP 5 DO THE SAME, AND SO ON. AFTER YOU TORQUE DOWN EACH MAIN CAP SPIN THE CRANK OVER A FEW TURNS TO MAKE SURE YOU HAVE NO BINDING, BECAUSE NOW IS THE TIME TO DEAL WITH THIS PROBLEM IF IT OCCURS. IF THE CRANK TURNS AROUND WITH LITTLE RESISTANCE THEN THIS GOOD. THE PRELUBE OIL WITH GIVE YOU A LITTLE RESISTANCE BUT NOT MUCH.
BELOW ARE
SOME PICTURES OF MY NEW BLOCK AND HEADS.
****
NOW THE PICTURE TO THE ABOVE LEFT SHOWS THAT I FIRMLY USE ARP MAIN CAP STUDS, SO THAT I HAVE LESS CRANSHAFT FLEX AT HIGHER RPM'S. YOU WILL ALSO NOTICE THAT I USE ARP OIL PAN STUDS TOO. NOW THE PICTURE TO THE RIGHT WILL SHOW YOU WHAT FLAT TOP PISTONS WILL LOOK LIKE WHEN INSTALLED. NOW THESE PISTONS WITH AUSSIE CLOSED CHAMBER HEADS WILL GIVE YOU BETWEEN 11.5 TO 1 TO 12 TO 1 COMPRESSION. FOR YOU GUYS WHO DON'T WANT THE MUCH COMPRESSION THEN RUN WITH THE OPEN CHAMBER AMERICAN HEADS.
AGAIN LOOK AT HOW NICE THE FLAT TOP PISTON
FIT. HERE IS THE BEGINNING OF SOME GOOD OLD FASHION CUBIC INCHES.
****
IN THESE PICTURES YOU WILL SEE WHAT I AM TALKING ABOUT WITH THE RESTRICTOR KITS, IF YOU LOOK AT THE PICTURE TO THE LEFT YOU SEE THE BOOTOM BIGGER HOLE IS WHERE YOU NEED TO RESTRICT THE OIL FLOW TO STAY DOWN TO THE MAIN AND ROD BEARINGS. THE ONLY OIL HOLES YOU WILL NEED TO RESTRICT ARE 2,3,4, AND 5 MAIN HOLES, BUT ON NUMBER 5 YOU WILL NOT ONLY INSTALL A RESTRICTOR SCREW IN THE MIDDLE HOLE BUT ALSO THE HOLE TO THE TOP AS SEEN IN THE PICTURE TO THE RIGHT.
****NOW THE PICTURE TO THE ABOVE LEFT SHOWS THAT I FIRMLY USE ARP MAIN CAP STUDS, SO THAT I HAVE LESS CRANSHAFT FLEX AT HIGHER RPM'S. YOU WILL ALSO NOTICE THAT I USE ARP OIL PAN STUDS TOO. NOW THE PICTURE TO THE RIGHT WILL SHOW YOU WHAT FLAT TOP PISTONS WILL LOOK LIKE WHEN INSTALLED. NOW THESE PISTONS WITH AUSSIE CLOSED CHAMBER HEADS WILL GIVE YOU BETWEEN 11.5 TO 1 TO 12 TO 1 COMPRESSION. FOR YOU GUYS WHO DON'T WANT THE MUCH COMPRESSION THEN RUN WITH THE OPEN CHAMBER AMERICAN HEADS.
****IN THESE PICTURES YOU WILL SEE WHAT I AM TALKING ABOUT WITH THE RESTRICTOR KITS, IF YOU LOOK AT THE PICTURE TO THE LEFT YOU SEE THE BOOTOM BIGGER HOLE IS WHERE YOU NEED TO RESTRICT THE OIL FLOW TO STAY DOWN TO THE MAIN AND ROD BEARINGS. THE ONLY OIL HOLES YOU WILL NEED TO RESTRICT ARE 2,3,4, AND 5 MAIN HOLES, BUT ON NUMBER 5 YOU WILL NOT ONLY INSTALL A RESTRICTOR SCREW IN THE MIDDLE HOLE BUT ALSO THE HOLE TO THE TOP AS SEEN IN THE PICTURE TO THE RIGHT.
AFTER
YOU HAVE FINISH WITH THE RESTRICTOR KIT YOU TURN THE ENGINE BLOCK BACK
UP, AND THEN WE CAN INSTALL THE HEAD STUDS, NOW WHEN YOU INSTALL THESE
ARP HEAD STUDS " DO NOT TIGHT THEM DOWN WITH A MONEY WRENCH, OR VISE
GRIPS !! HAND TIGHTEN THEM DOWN BUT BEFORE YOU SCREW THEM IN
APPLY SOME MOLY LUBE ON THE THREADS.
***
NOW WE MOVE TO THE HEADS, I RUN AUSSIE HEADS BECAUSE THEY HAVE CLOSED CHAMBERS, PLUS THEY ARE CAST A LOT BETTER THAN THE US HEADS. I HAVE MACHINED MY HEADS FOR SCREW IN 7/16" ARP ROCKER STUDS WITH COMP CAM 3/8" GUIDE PLATES.
I AM ALSO RUNNING COMP CAM VALVE SPRINGS WITH 380 LB'S OF OPEN SPRING PRESSURE, WITH MANELY STAINLESS STEEL VALVES, HARLAND SHARP ROLLER ROCKER 1.73 RATIO. I ALSO HAD .25 THOUSANDS SHAVED OFF THEM TOO. IF YOU WANT YOUR HEADS TO PERFORM THEN YOU WILL SPEND BETWEEN 500.00 TO 1500.00 IN BOTH MACHINE WORK AND PARTS. AND THEN IF YOU WANT THEM PORTED AND POLISHED THEN ADD ON ANOTHER 200.00 TO 400.00 DOLLARS.
****
NOW IN THESE PICTURES YOU WILL SEE WHERE I DID SOME HEAVY PORTING TO THE EXHAUST RUNNERS, ALONG WITH THE VALVE AREA TO.
NOW BECAUSE OF THE ROLLER CAM I AM RUNNING I NEEDED TO GO TO A BEEFER PUSH ROD SO I DECIDED ON SMITH BRO'S PUSH RODS THEY CUSTOM MADE 3/8" PUSHRODS FOR ME.
****
NOW FOR THE INTAKE MANIFOLD SETUP, I LIKE THE WEIAND ACTION PLUS MANIFOLD, IT GIVE A TORQUE RPM RANGE OF 1500 TO 7000 RPM'S. I DON'T MUCH CARE FOR THE EDELBROCK INTAKE DUE THE FACT THAT OLD VIC DOES NOT HAVE MUCH IN THIS AREA. I HAVE HAD NOTHING BUT EXCELLENT PERFORMANCE FROM THESE INTAKES. NOW FOR THE CARBURETOR I DO LIKE EDELBROCKS PERFORMER SERIES CARBS, I RUN THE 600 CFM MANUEL CHOKE JETTED 8 % RICHER. ANOTHER THING YOU CAN DO TO THE INTAKE RUNNERS OF THE INTAKE IS PORT MATCH THEM TO THE HEADS. THIS WILL GIVE YOU BETTER FLOW.
***
NOW WE COME TO THE OIL PAN, I HAVE A MOROSO OIL PAN THAT HAD A 7 QT CAPACITY, SO I DID NOT WANT TO SPEND ANY MORE MONEY RIGHT NOW SO I MODIFIED IT TO HOLD AROUND 9 TO 10 QT'S OF OIL. NOT ONLY WILL THIS SUPPLY MORE THAN ENOUGH OIL BUT IT WILL KEEP MY OIL COOLER TO. SO NOW THERE NO PROBLEM WITH RUNNING A HIGH VOLUME HIGH PRESSURE OIL PUMP.
***
IN THE ABOVE PICTURES YOU CAN SEE MY VALVE TRAIN SETUP, I AM RUNNING FULL HARLAND SHARP ROOKERS WITH A.R.P. 7/16" SCREW IN STUDS, COMP CAM 3/8" GUIDE PLATES, WITH SMITH BRO'S 3/8" PUSHRODS.
****
THESE PICTURE ABOVE SHOW YOU VALLEY AREA AND HOW THE ROLLER LIFTERS ARE HELD IN PLACE BY WAY OF A SPECIAL PLATE BOLTED TO THE BOTTOM OF THE VALLEY FLOOR. NEXT TO THE LEFT YOU WILL SEE THE OIL PAN I RESIGNED IS ALL POWDER COATED CANDY APPLE BLUE.
***
PARTS LIST AND COST
I DON'T MIND IF YOU CALL AND GET TECH HELP BUT PLEASE DO NOT CALL AND ASK FOR PART NUMBERS AND THEN GO BUT THEM SOMEWHERE ELSE. I STOCK MOST OF THESE PARTS IN OUR INVENTORY NOW.
THANK YOU
EXTREME 4X4 WORKS LLC
269-492-9866
***NOW WE MOVE TO THE HEADS, I RUN AUSSIE HEADS BECAUSE THEY HAVE CLOSED CHAMBERS, PLUS THEY ARE CAST A LOT BETTER THAN THE US HEADS. I HAVE MACHINED MY HEADS FOR SCREW IN 7/16" ARP ROCKER STUDS WITH COMP CAM 3/8" GUIDE PLATES.
I AM ALSO RUNNING COMP CAM VALVE SPRINGS WITH 380 LB'S OF OPEN SPRING PRESSURE, WITH MANELY STAINLESS STEEL VALVES, HARLAND SHARP ROLLER ROCKER 1.73 RATIO. I ALSO HAD .25 THOUSANDS SHAVED OFF THEM TOO. IF YOU WANT YOUR HEADS TO PERFORM THEN YOU WILL SPEND BETWEEN 500.00 TO 1500.00 IN BOTH MACHINE WORK AND PARTS. AND THEN IF YOU WANT THEM PORTED AND POLISHED THEN ADD ON ANOTHER 200.00 TO 400.00 DOLLARS.
****NOW IN THESE PICTURES YOU WILL SEE WHERE I DID SOME HEAVY PORTING TO THE EXHAUST RUNNERS, ALONG WITH THE VALVE AREA TO.
NOW BECAUSE OF THE ROLLER CAM I AM RUNNING I NEEDED TO GO TO A BEEFER PUSH ROD SO I DECIDED ON SMITH BRO'S PUSH RODS THEY CUSTOM MADE 3/8" PUSHRODS FOR ME.
****NOW FOR THE INTAKE MANIFOLD SETUP, I LIKE THE WEIAND ACTION PLUS MANIFOLD, IT GIVE A TORQUE RPM RANGE OF 1500 TO 7000 RPM'S. I DON'T MUCH CARE FOR THE EDELBROCK INTAKE DUE THE FACT THAT OLD VIC DOES NOT HAVE MUCH IN THIS AREA. I HAVE HAD NOTHING BUT EXCELLENT PERFORMANCE FROM THESE INTAKES. NOW FOR THE CARBURETOR I DO LIKE EDELBROCKS PERFORMER SERIES CARBS, I RUN THE 600 CFM MANUEL CHOKE JETTED 8 % RICHER. ANOTHER THING YOU CAN DO TO THE INTAKE RUNNERS OF THE INTAKE IS PORT MATCH THEM TO THE HEADS. THIS WILL GIVE YOU BETTER FLOW.
***NOW WE COME TO THE OIL PAN, I HAVE A MOROSO OIL PAN THAT HAD A 7 QT CAPACITY, SO I DID NOT WANT TO SPEND ANY MORE MONEY RIGHT NOW SO I MODIFIED IT TO HOLD AROUND 9 TO 10 QT'S OF OIL. NOT ONLY WILL THIS SUPPLY MORE THAN ENOUGH OIL BUT IT WILL KEEP MY OIL COOLER TO. SO NOW THERE NO PROBLEM WITH RUNNING A HIGH VOLUME HIGH PRESSURE OIL PUMP.
***IN THE ABOVE PICTURES YOU CAN SEE MY VALVE TRAIN SETUP, I AM RUNNING FULL HARLAND SHARP ROOKERS WITH A.R.P. 7/16" SCREW IN STUDS, COMP CAM 3/8" GUIDE PLATES, WITH SMITH BRO'S 3/8" PUSHRODS.
****THESE PICTURE ABOVE SHOW YOU VALLEY AREA AND HOW THE ROLLER LIFTERS ARE HELD IN PLACE BY WAY OF A SPECIAL PLATE BOLTED TO THE BOTTOM OF THE VALLEY FLOOR. NEXT TO THE LEFT YOU WILL SEE THE OIL PAN I RESIGNED IS ALL POWDER COATED CANDY APPLE BLUE.
***PARTS LIST AND COST
OUR PART
#
PART
DESCRIPTION
PRICE
| EX-8010 |
WIEAND
ACTION PLUS INTAKE MANIFOLD |
225.00 |
| EX-REST |
RESTRICTOR
KIT |
20.00 |
| EX-S4005 | HARLAND
SHARP ROLLER ROCKER SET ( 1.73 RATIO) |
250.00 |
| EX-ARP- |
ARP
7/16" SCREW IN ROCKER STUD SET |
65.00 |
| EX-2M5508 |
POWER
FLEX RING SET ( .010, .020, .030, .040 OVER SIZES) THESE
ARE RACING RINGS |
160.00 |
| EX-2M139 |
HASTINGS
MOLY RING SET ( .010, .020, .030, .040 OVER) |
65.00 |
| EX-AUSSIEHEAD |
AUSTRALIAN
CLOSED CHAMBER CLEVELAND HEADS |
800.00
SET |
| LABOR
|
MACHINE
HEADS FOR SCREW IN STUDS |
100.00 |
| LABOR |
GRIND
AND POLISH CRANKSHAFT |
125.00 |
| LABOR |
BORE
AND HONE BLOCK |
140.00 |
| LABOR
|
DECK
BLOCK |
150.00 |
| LABOR |
POLISH
SIDE BEAMS ON CONNECTING RODS |
200.00 |
| LABOR
|
RECONDITION
RODS (8) |
100.00 |
| LABOR |
TAP
ALL THREADED HOLES IN BLOCK AND HEADS |
75.00 |
| LABOR |
PORT
EXHAUST RUNNERS IN HEAD |
150.00 |
| LABOR |
PORT
INTAKE RUNNERS IN HEAD |
150.00 |
| LABOR
|
PORT
MATCH INTAKE PORT TO HEAD PORT |
75.00 |
| LABOR |
INSTALL
RESTRICTOR KIT |
35.00 |
| LABOR |
CHAMBFER
CRANKSHAFT |
35.00 |
| LABOR |
BALANCE
ALL ROTATING ASSEMBLIES |
250.00 |
| PART
154-5404 |
ARP
MAIN BOLT STUD KIT |
150.00 |
| PART
154-4004 |
ARP
HEAD BOLT STUD KIT |
150.00 |
| PART
154-6001 |
ARP
ROD BOLT KIT |
75.00 |
| PART
454-1901 |
ARP
OIL PAN STUD BOLT KIT |
35.00 |
| PART
CB927H |
CLEVETT
HP ROD BEARING SET |
75.00 |
| PART
30520 |
MILADON
DEEP REAR SUMP OIL PAN (4X4) |
350.00 |
| PART
24530 |
MILADON
OIL PICKUP TUBE |
85.00 |
| PART
MS1432H |
CLEVETT
HP MAIN BEARING SET |
65.00 |
| PART
PET351-14C |
PETE
JACKSON GEAR DRIVE TIMING SET |
275.00 |
| PART
7980-16 |
COMP
CAM 3/8" PUSHROD SET |
150.00 |
| PART
K32-541-8 |
COMP
CAM HDY ROLLER CAM KIT ( COMES WITH: CAM, LIFTERS, VALVE SPRINGS,
RETAINERS, LOCKS, TIMING SET, VALVE GUIDE SEALS |
650.00 |
| PART
40010F |
BADGER
PISTON SET |
175.00 |
| PART
FP-26 |
DURA
BOND HP CAM BEARING SET |
45.00 |
| PART
6582-R351 |
ALUM
CHROME TALL VALVE COVER SET (FORD RACING) |
225.00 |
| LABOR |
MACHINE
HEADS FOR NEW BRONSE VALVE GUIDES |
150.00 |
| PART
BRON-GUIDE |
BRONZE
GUIDE SET OF 16 |
80.00 |
| PART
MRG-222 |
INTAKE
GASKET SET |
25.00 |
| PART
KS2308 |
GASKET
KIT (EXCLUDING INTAKE GASKET) |
65.00 |
| PART
M84AHV |
MELLING
HIGH VOLUMN OIL PUMP |
75.00 |
| PART
8580 |
MSD
BILLET DISTRIBUTOR |
260.00 |
I DON'T MIND IF YOU CALL AND GET TECH HELP BUT PLEASE DO NOT CALL AND ASK FOR PART NUMBERS AND THEN GO BUT THEM SOMEWHERE ELSE. I STOCK MOST OF THESE PARTS IN OUR INVENTORY NOW.
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EXTREME 4X4 WORKS LLC
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